It is always a good idea to make sure there aren't any cracked or missing top braces contributing to the high action and to fix these if they are present.
If the bridge is coming unglued from the top that should be fixed first. If the neck is bowed it should first be straightened. That being the case, it behooves the repair person to be sure that all other contributions to high action have been taken care of before the neck reset is attempted.
And since material is removed in the process, a neck reset is not a readily reversible process. If you want to get an idea of what the neck reset process looks like, take a look at Benjamin Strange's nice pictorial here.Ī neck reset is a non-trivial repair even on instruments that have easily removable necks. A Javascript calculator is also provided so you don't have to do the math.Ĭomplete instructions for performing a neck reset are out of the scope of this page, but I did want to include a few general considerations for those attempting to do this operation. This page provides the formula for figuring out just how big the wedge of material removed from the heel should be. The fatter the wedge, the lower the strings will be after the neck is reattached. For guitars with “removable” necks, the resetting operation involves removing the neck and then cutting a wedge shaped piece out of the face of the neck heel that contacts the guitar body. The fix for this is to reset the neck so that the neck is angled back, thus bringing the strings closer to the fingerboard again. This deformation raises the height of the strings off the fingerboard and eventually results in action that is so high that the instrument is no longer playable. The classic deformation tends to cave in the top in front of the bridge and hump it up behind the bridge. The strain of string tension tends to deform the wood of the guitar in a permanent manner over time, due to a property of wood called creep.
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